Climbing in the realm of the Shogun - narrow ridge to the impossible

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Why I chose a certain route, I am often asked. The reasons for considering a new challenge are actually always the same. On the one hand, it is of course important how many times this route has already been climbed and, on the other hand, by whom. For example, if I know that Alex Megos has done this challenge, I can draw good conclusions about how demanding the route really is.

What attracted me to the route "In the realm of the Shogun" was the fact that I have known it for a long time. After all, it's right on my doorstep. And of course the difficulty level 9a is a benchmark for me. How often did I think about whether this route is feasible for me at all! Again and again I had to answer this question with no. Until 2019, when I thought to myself: now I am physically, mentally and technically at the level to take on such a big challenge. So I set about training.

Great respect and doubts
As I began to project the route, I found more and more like the line. It is a fine line to the impossible. There are just enough holds to reach the top. The respect for this route was very great and doubts kept coming up. I asked myself: Should I work harder on myself? Should I train only for this route and is it really worth investing the time? At some point, I decided to only practice directly in the route while projecting and not to put in any extra training sessions.

During training, I noticed that some of the holds were very painful. This sometimes really demotivated me to continue. But I didn't want to put myself under pressure in terms of time, so I took breaks every now and then to let my fingers heal. But I didn't want to give myself too much time either. In climbing, external influences such as rain, cold or heat are also decisive. In other words, it's not possible to climb such a difficult route all year round.

I learned a lot about the route
In my attempts to climb through, I failed again and again. But I learned a lot about the route as a result. At this difficulty level, things like when do I clip, when do I chalk, or when and where can I shake my hands are very crucial. And often I was also fighting against myself. Then when I made it through, I was overjoyed and felt a sense of relief. In my mind, I often went through what it would be like when the time came. I will be able to remember the feeling for a very long time, but at the same time I ask myself again: What comes next? I have done many difficult routes. Now I'm thinking about trying new ones and finding out if and how they are doable.

Hope you enjoyed my blogpost. I would be happy about many ratings and comments.

Yours Philipp

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